MOUNTAIN MAJESTIES

Ethiopia’s geology is based primarily on an old crystalline block, which once also covered an immense area from the Brazilian plateau to India’s Decaan. Formed early in the earth’s history this block later cracked after its three component parts –American, African, and Asian –drifted apart. The country’s bedrock, therefore, belongs to the earth’s first continent, which geologists call Gondwanaland, of which Africa is the largest intact remnant.

The hard crystalline rocks of the African block consist of granites and gneiss, and contain many valuable deposits. Parts of the Ethiopian area were once under the sea, so that there are also many sedimentary rocks, mainly limestones and sandstones, in addition to later volcanic materials found in layers above the old crystalline rocks.

In some places rain has eroded the more recent rocks, exposing the original rocks. Nowhere is this more prominent—and stunning –than in Ethiopia’s northern Simien region. This was the epicenter of much volcanic activity about forty million years ago, and the resulting out poring of a boiling mass of white –hot lava reached a thickness of some 3,000 metres (9,840 feet0 in this area before it stopped. Subsequent erosion of this volcanic core has produced the dramatic highs and lows of the Simiens: deep precipices and gorges, tall pinnacles of Jaggid rock, and weird, withered landscapes.

The region includes many summits above 4,000 Metres (13,000 feet) and culminates in the highest point in Ethiopia, Ras Dashen, which at 4,543 meters (14,901feet), is also Africa’s fourth highest mountain. It is not a difficult mountain to climb and can be reached by traveling through the Simien Mountains National Park.

The base from which to explore the small, 179-square-kilo-metre (111-square-mile) park is Debark, 748 kilometres (464miles) north-west of Addis Ababa and 101 kilometers (63 miles) north of gondar.

The first thing nay visitor must do is rent pack and riding animals and hire guides for the six-hour trip in to the park. Although it helps to inquired in Addis Ababa before you leave concerning dealers and current prices, the hiring of guides, mules, and muleteers is done through the national park head quarters.

As the only ‘motorable’ dry weather road in the park –up to Sankaber Camp –is not always in good condition, transport of the for-legged variety is by far the more reliable means of getting around.

Suitable clothing for extreme temperatures are needed as the diurnal swing is considerable. Waterproof clothing is also necessary, as are a hat and sunscreen lotion: at these altitudes the sun can burn fiercely. Water is available from the various streams but should be treated. It is wise to remember that the main luggage is loaded on mules for the day, so the day’s needs should be carried in a separate pack.

There are various campsites and tracks to follow and its is best to take the advice of the guides. The topography of this park will remain in the mind forever. Climbing up from Debark on mules, through extensive farmland, the visitor is unaware of the dramatic scenery about to unfold. The land forks various small plateaux, and the edges of these plunge dramatically to the lowlands to the north and east. The gorge edges from a perfect habitat for the animal that the park was set up to protect –the Walia ibex.

Generally the first stop is Sankaber Camp, a trek that leads mainly through cultivated areas to the 3,230-metre (10,600 foot) campsite. From this point, visitors can walk to the edge of the abyss, where they may get their first glimpse of the spectacular scenery. Much of the vegetation has been altered by humans over the years and few trees will be seen in the area except the introduced eucalyptus. But in inaccessible areas, such as the escarpment, natural habitats are preserved and plants such as St.John’s wort and heather are seen as small trees or bushes, and many smaller herbs form carpets of colour. Among these are many species of Alchemilla, the tall spikes of various ‘red-hot pokers’ and carpets of small blue lobelia flowers.

Probably the easiest animal to see in this area is the endemic gelada baboon, which grass eaters and will often be seen in family unit, one male guarding his harem of females and young ones. They are also known as the ‘bleeding heart baboons’ from the red are on the chest that show the sexual state of the animal. The klipspringer may be seen on rocky areas, its hooves specially adapted to leaping from rock to rock. The small grey duiker in habits any area where there is enough cover to protect it from enemies.

Though named after this area, the simian fox, also referred to as the Simien jackal or Ethiopian wolf, is now very rare here, with only out thirty animals remaining. They are more common in bale Mountains national Park in the south. Its high pitched call may be heard at night, and its bright red coat is distinctive if seen during the day. It feeds on the many species of rodents found here.

The animal most visitors wish to see is the Walia ibex. This member of the wild goat family has magnificent heavily ridged horns sweeping back over the shoulders. The Walia live on the crags of the steep escarpment, their hooves clinging to the smallest ledge.

The birds here often provide spectacular aerobatic displays off the sheer cliffs, using the air currents peculiar to the terrain. Lammergeyers and choughs are present, as well as endemics such as the thick-billed raven, black-head siskin, white-collared pigeon, wattled ibis, white-billed starling, spot-breasted plover, and white-backed black tit.

From Sankaber, the track leads through meadows, forests, and some cultivated areas to Geech, a three-to three-and-a-half-hour trip by mule. Geech, at 3,660 meters (11,800 feet),is worth a stay of at least two days: there are several good lookout spots where one may see Walia, gelada, and klipspringer, and breath-taking views from nearby peaks.

From Geech to the next stopping-off point, Ch’enek, the journey takes another two-and-a-half to four hours, and trekkers may have to dismount and walk part of the way where the climb is steep. The Ch’enek campsite offers superb views, and there are many places to see Walia ibex. There are also caves to explore, and this is the only place in the park where -*-if extremely lucky –one can see rock hyrax, the small mammal that looks like an overgrown guinea pig but is distantly related to the elephant.

After Ch’enek, the traveler usually returns to Sankaber (three to four hours) and then Debark (five to six hours). But if arranged in advance, more extensive trips can be made to buahit, at 4,437 metres (14,550 feet),which is outside the national park; Ras Dashen, Ethiopia’s highest peak at 4,543 metres (14,901feet); and the lowlands. Three game scout camps exist in the lowlands at Dirni, Muchila, and demas; but a trip here is a real expedition and recommended only for the more hardy people able to walk under though conditions and cope with rock climbing. A trip from ch’enek along the foot of the escarpment to the Wolkayit Pass and Debark lasts about five to seven days.
 

In ethiopia’s south-east lies the Bale mountain range, which dominates the landscape as it reises from the extensive surrounding farmlands. At its epicenter is the spectacular Bale Mountains National park, a high altitude plateau broken by numerous dramatic volcanic plugs and peaks, beautiful alpine lakes, and mountain streams that rush into deep, rocky gorges on their way to the lowlands below.

As one ascends into the mountains one will experience changes in the vegetation with altitude, from juniper forests to heather moorlands and alpine meadows –which at various times to the year exhibit an abundance of colourful wild flowers.

The national park is Africa’s largest fro-alpine habitat, with unlimited opportunities for some fantastic mountain walks, horse trekking, scenic driving and the chance to view many of Ethiopia’s endemic mammals and birds.

Bale Mountains National park is 2,400 square kilometer (1,488 square miles) in area, covering a wide range of habitats and ranging in altitude from 1,500 to 4,377 meters (4,920 to 14,357 feet) southern Ethiopia’s highest point. The spectacular Harenna escarpment running from east to west divides the area in to two major parts. To the north is a high–altitude plateau area, formed of ancient volcanic rocks and dissected by many rivers and streams that have cut deep gorges in to the edges. In some places this has resulted in scenic waterfalls.

The vegetation here varies according to altitude. Around Dinsho, in the north, there are grass riverine plains, bordered by bands of bushes, particularly sagebrush and St. John’s wort. Wild flowers, such as lobelia, geraniums, ‘red-hot pokers’, and Alchemilla, form carpets of colour. Higher up the mountains heather appears either as small bushes or as mature trees. The high Sanitti Plateau, at 4,000 metres (13,120 feet), is characterized by Afro-alpine plants, some coping with the extreme temperatures by becoming small and others by becoming large. The best example of the latter is the giant lobelia, whose stems stand high against the skyline.

Wild flowers are many and various, the dominant plant being the Helichrysum, or ‘everlasting’ flowers. The everlastings can be seen in many forms, but the grey bushes of H.splendidumin are most striking, especially when covered with their yellow flowers. The vegetation on the plateau has to contend with the many species of rodents found here.

The southern part of the park is heavily forested after the land falls away from the high plateau in a dense heather belt. The heather forest is particularly mature here, draped with many lichens.

The wildlife of Bale3 includes many endemic species. The park was originally established to protect two: the mountain nyala and the Simien fos (or jackal), which, despite its name, is more frequently seen in Bale than in the Simien Mountains National Park. The mountain Nyala are best seen in the Gaysay area of the north where they spread out over the grass plains. Other wildlife in this area includes Menelik’s bushbuck, an endemic subspecies in which the males are a very dark colour, numerous bohar reedbuck, greay duiker, warthog, several cat, cologus monkey, and Anubis baboon.

The high plateau is noted for the Simien fox, shoes chestnutred coat is in strong contrast to the grey vegetation. It preys on the numerous species of rodent found here, the biggest being the giant mole-rat. This subterranean animal, endemic to the Bale mountains, can weigh as much as one kilo.

The forest of the south is so thick that animals are difficult to see, but there are three species of pig here –warthog, bushpig, and giant forest hog. There are also lion, leopard, spotted hyena, and, rarely, African hunting dog. Which is normally found in a much more open habitat.

Bale’s birds include sixteen endemic species, many of which are easily seen. These include wattled ibis, black-winged love-bird, blue-winged goose, Rouget’s rail, and thick-billed raven. Wattled cranes are often seen breeding on the high plateau in the wet season.

There are three ways to explore the Bale Mountains National park: by four-wheel drive vehicle, on foot, or on horse back –although the park is best suited for walking, being a mountainous and fragile environment.

If you choose to drive, there are nevertheless a few roads and tracks that can be negotiated with a four- wheel-drive vehicle.

A good area to explore first is Gaysay, which provides a good morning’s or afternoon’s wildlife watching and should not be missed by any visitor. Gaysay guarantees every visitor a chance to see the endemic mountain nyala in considerable numbers –as many as 400 have been seen here in a single afternoon. In addition, there are numerous grey duiker, warthog, and menelik’s bushbunk, with beautiful jet-black males. Colobous, serval cat, and baboon are sometimes seen as well. On very rare occasions leopard are sighted, and someties a pair of the endemic simian fox. Birds a bound, especially inte forest,a nd are usually heard if not seen.

Another spectacular drive is from Goba south to Dolo-Mena. Across the eastern section of the national park and the Sanetti Plateau. This is the highest all –weather road in Africa and crosses the 4,000-metre (13,120-foot) contour through some of the loveliest ountain scenery on the continent that can be viewed from the comfort of a vehicle. It is even possible (but first check with rangers as to road conditions) to drive to the top of Tullu Deemtu –Ethiopia’s second-highest mountain at 4,377 metres (14,357 feet).

The road climbs up from Goba through beautiful juniper and Hagenia forest and is lined with the Organge-blossomed Leonotis.

The forest gives way to giant St. John’s wort woods—a narrow zone soo9n succeeded by heather moorlands. Then you are out of the forest and into the open, the mountains proper. Vistas reach out to the strange pinnacles of Chorchora peak on the left –one of the park boundary markers—and across the sheersided Tegonal River gorge on the right.

Another steep zigzag climb across heather- and scrub –covered slopes leads to the plateau though portals of weird five metre (165 foot) tall columns of giant lobelia. The plateau is studded with numerous shallow alpine lakes, with views to the steep-sided volocanic plug of Konteh Tully to the south and the long, craggy ridges of Mount Batu—4,203 metres (13,786 feet) –to the west.

The road continues climbing, gently now, past Crane lakes at the base on Konteh. This is the centre of the best area for seeing Simien fox and, on rare occasions, mountain nyala. The spectacular views can be even more awe-inspiring if you take the steep climb to the top of Konteh or the longer climb to the domed Tulu Demtu summit to the west of the road soon after.

The main road continues south to the edge of the Harenna escarpment before descending through a series of breathtaking hairpin bends. The initial heather scrub gives way after a few kilometers to Hagenia, heather, and St.Hohn’s wort forest; later merging in to lush Podocarpus forest: enormous trees covered with mosses, ferns, and ‘old man’s beard’ lichens. This continues down the small Rira escarpment, where, looking back, one can see the tall Gujurule rock towers, their tops often shrouded in cloud and mist. Around their base is glorious mixed forest with bomboo and many clear, sparkling streams that are the source of the Shawe River, which the road later crosses before it suddenly ends, almost 100 kilometres (62 miles) from Goba.

The park boundary lies shortly before your cross the Shisha—a small tributary of the Yadot River. The forest gives way abruptly to dry, lowland wooded grasslands at about 1,600 metres (5,250 feet) .About ten kilometes 9six miles) later the little village of Dolo-Mena is rached. Here, on a market day, one will be treated to the surprising sight of camels –so soon after leaving the alpine condition s of more than 4,000 metres (13,120 feet).

Dolo-Mena is 110 kilometers (68 miles) from Goba, but a reasonable undertaking for a day’s drive is from Goba to the plateau’s southern edge, with perhaps a descent of the escarpment into the forest below, followed by a return to Goba. A good campsite exists at Katcha, after Rira on the left of the road, along a track to a quarry. This is a good base for walking in the bamboo forest and for exploring the Gujurule volcanic Plugs.

A third track leads south from the park headquarters, crosss the interesting natural bridge over the Danka River, and runs beneath cliffs to the edge of the Web river gorge. It ends in a broad, flat valley, from where it is an easy walk to the beautiful Finch’ Abera waterfall.

Other ‘ supreme attractions’ in Bale include the thirteen mountain streams and many ice-cold trains that teem with fat and beautiful brown and rainbow trout. Stocked with fry from Kenya in the 1960s these fish have flourished in the mountain waters and offer a challenge few fly-fishers could resist. Natable among the many options are the pools below the upper below the Upper Web falls and the long, placid stretches where the river flows, green and crystal clear, across the moorlands. The self-help lodge at dinsho is the Bale Trout Fishing Club headquarters.